Traditions are not only clung to by Jewish people in Russia, as the song "Tradition" from Fiddler on the Roof proclaims; Italians are right up there in tenacity. I saw strong evidence of it when searching out tradition and customs in Calabria and southern Italy, but less adherence in the United States. I accept and understand this, but it saddens me. The reasons are many. Families no longer live side by side, in fact they often live great distances apart; much inter-marriage takes place; families live busier lives; women work outside the home and have less time to devote to family customs, feasts, and traditions.

The reason we are members of the Gulf Coast Italian Cultural Society and other Italian organizations is because we are holding tenaciously to our culture. The line from a song "catch a falling star and put it your pocket, never let it go" seems to fit here. We don't want to let "it" go. We love and appreciate our heritage and try to pass much of it on to our children and grandchildren. Happily, my son, his family and I celebrated a traditional Christmas Eve and Christmas Day with only tiny exceptions. I recently e-mailed my sons and grandchildren this ho-hum crasher: "When was the last time you went to a board meeting in a board member's home followed by "Pasta e Fazool" and a game of bocci on the back lawn?"

And so we celebrate Carnevale. Taking its cue from Roman festivals of old, Carnevale explodes all over Italy with parades, floats representing myths, masks, music, and, of course, tons of food. Often lasting from several days to two weeks, Carnevale is an important religious event as well as a time of entertainment. Music fills the air as men in masks and all the local children flood the streets scattering sugarcoated almonds commonly called confetti or coriandoli to approving viewers. The really big bash occurs on Martedi Grasso, Fat Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday, the beginning of Lent. It is one of the most culinary celebrations of the year. It is also one of total indulgence, a liberation from the normal social order, and a time for games and disguises. Music and dancing at a masked ball or in the streets continues into the night.

In the States, Carnevale emerges strongest in New Orleans where revelers jam streets for Mardi Gras, the tra-ditional final fling before the austerity of Lent. For Carnevale means "flesh farewell." Originally, it was the last time that meat was eaten until Easter. Gradually, voluntary self-denial of (some) food and (most) fun took over.

A writer, Serafino Amabile Guastella (perhaps a long-lost relative of my father's family) wrote about Carnevale in 1887: "The last day of Carnevale resembled a food fair. In every street, every alleyway, and courtyard, the roofs and windows were festooned with baskets in which all possible varieties of homemade macaroni were stretched out to dry in the sun." He speaks of many antipasti, various kinds of meats, ricotta, cheese, and vegetables being readied for the festa. Combining pasta with ricotta and other cheeses results in an irresistible Lasagna. Into the typical rich Ragu, robust red wine is added, along with spicy sausages, and beef meatballs. Rolled beef, or Bracioli di Manza, was added when afforded. In my home, Bracioli to die for (my Mom made the best I have ever tasted) sausage, and meatballs were always included!

And always, as with other feasts, lots of wine. And always country-style bread, and even polenta. While southern Italians have always preferred pasta to polenta, northern Italians served it often. Although extensive use has diminished, it has by no means disappeared. Still popular today in Italy, with some inroads in the United States, it continues to be served at Carnevale and other festivals in both countries.

As for dessert, the king of the Carnival is Cannoli, now a part of the American language. Always sprinkled among a variety of sweets are confetti. I'm not sure when Tiramasu became a part of the festa scene, but it has become immensely popular in the United States and is a welcomed addition to dessert selections.

And so we have cooked up a menu encompassing much of the traditional foods served on Carnevale, from many appealing appetizers, to pasta with a piquant sauce, to a melange of meats, hot and cold, and to delectable desserts. We invite you to celebrate this lusty holiday with us. Let's make it even more festive by all wearing a colorful mask. We'll provide the rest. This will be yet another way for us to celebrate our heritage with joy and thanksgiving.

Mary Amabile Palmer