Natale, Christmas, is the day in which the Christian world celebrates the birth of Christ, and is the most tradition-filled holiday in Italy. The same is true for Italian-Americans. Beginning with Christmas Eve the extended family gets together, the quint-essential ingredient for a Merry Christmas, for it is very much a family affair. No family member ever eats alone at Christmas or any other holiday. All share in the observance of the Christmas Mass, often at midnight, which is profoundly ethereal. The Church is readied to please the senses. The altar is teeming with fragrant flowers, hundreds of candles twinkle like stars, the music is angelic and triumphant, incense floats down isles seeping into corners, soothing the soul, the priests' robes are regal and impressive, and the life-like cresche is the reminder of the true meaning of Christmas. Never is the spirit more uplifted.

In Italy, most celebrations begin on December 24, Christmas Eve, continue in full force on Christmas Day and extend to the Feast of the Epiphany, January 6, for a full 14 days. Sandwiched in between, a mere breath away, and with barely enough time to recover from Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, are the national Feast of St. Stephen, December 26, New Years Eve and New Years Day. In other parts of the country, festivities begin December 6, the birth of San Nicola, the original St. Nicholas, or December 8, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, or on December 13, the Feast of St. Lucy. Essentially then, in some areas, Christmas festivities can go on for almost one full month! During this time, a nine-day Christmas Novena is held to prepare the faithful for the most significant religious Christian event of the past 2000 years, the birth of Christ.

As Christmas approaches, the holiday spirit spreads quickly. On every street corner the sweet aroma of roasted chestnuts fills the air. Fragrant flowers appear in churches, stores, balconies and homes. Zampognari, bagpipers, imported from Abruzzi and Sicily, combine with Calabrians and serenade villagers for days. Other musicians with their beloved mandolins, flutes and tambourines parade from church to church serenading the newborn Jesus. My father played the mandolin on such occasions. Two lovely Italian Christmas carols are "Tu Scendi Dalle Stelle", You Came From the Stars, and "E Nato Gesu", Jesus was Born.

Presepios, creches, with figures of Mary, Joseph, baby Jesus, the wise men, shepherds, including oxen and donkeys emerge everywhere. The idea of a creche belongs to St. Francis of Assisi. Desirous of ensuring that the real meaning of Christmas not be lost, in 1223 in a little town called Greccio, he made the first creche. Quickly, creches were adopted by the king, nobles and the wealthy. Some had hundreds of figures. So powerful a concept was it, that it was soon adopted by just about everyone, near and far. Today, every church, piazza, store and restaurant has its own, from simple to lavish, more than fulfilling St. Francis' vision. Each family reserves a special corner for its own personal creche. During a visit to Italy while researching my book, I was invited to the home of a very gracious lady. In her grand and immense dining room, beautifully formed creche figures rested upon a handsome, carved wooden table, left there to be adored year round.

Religious ceremonies precede the January 6 Feast of the Epiphany during which reenactment of the coming of the Magi, the three wise men, takes place. Torch light processions guide the faithful. Since the first gifts to baby Jesus were delivered by the three wise men on the Feast of Epiphany, that is the day when "Befana", a little old lady, the equivalent of our Santa Claus, slides down the chimney filling the children's hanging stockings with gifts, fruit and candy. Instead of a sleigh and reindeer, however, Befana, likened to a good witch (depending on whether you've been "naughty or nice") travels on a broom. Gifts of food on Christmas are common and much appreciated here and in Italy. Family and friends exchange homemade preserved delicacies, pastries, cookies, wines, and liqueurs. Torrone, a popular semi-hard chewy almond candy that originated in Benevento, Campagnia, is a gift given throughout Italy. Today in Italy gifts are most often exchanged on Christmas Eve whereas in America they are exchanged on Christmas morn. Befana, however, has not entirely relinquished her role; she still fills stockings for good little tots with good little tidbits on Epiphany.

Preparation for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day meals begin well in advance. Food takes on enormous significance on both days. Shopping is done in batches, the final last minute shopping for fresh ingredients, whereas earlier purchases include foods that can be prepared in advance. Preparing mountains of delicious food for the family is the veritable gift of love. No effort is spared! Food is also designed to appeal to the senses, with taste heading the list. Slowly, the provocative, enticing aromas float throughout the house creating unbridled anticipation. Desire mounts as the enticing, appealing, colorful, glistening, beguiling dishes march confidently into the dining room. Glorious gratification at last!

While the number of foods served on La Vigilia, Christmas Eve, varies, depending on the region in Italy, it can be seven for the seven sacraments, or thirteen, for the twelve apostles and Christ, certain foods are a must. Others reflect traditions established in each province and indeed, in each village. One thing common to all of Calabria, southern Italy and probably all of Italy itself, however, is that no meat is served on Christmas Eve. It is not difficult to serve an all fish dinner in Italy or in the States. With many miles of coastline, Italians have many varieties from which to choose for exciting antipasti, pasta, salads and entree dishes. Americans have access to a wide variety of fresh fish year round.

In the home, the unceasing banquet begins. The Christmas Eve meal typically begins with a host of antipasti followed by a meatless broth. A pasta dish might contain fish such as clams. The entree choices include a marinated multi-fish salad, smelts, baccala, and eel dishes. Eel is the top traditional choice throughout all of Italy, a custom going back to the Etruscans. Crusty bread and wine appear throughout Christmas Eve and Christmas Day meals. Perfectly seasoned vegetables and a mixed salad follow. Ample time transpires between courses during which the family talks and shares experiences, bonding closer and strengthening their love for each other. Time then for various desserts and always fruits, nuts, and roasted chestnuts.

On Christmas Day, again the number of foods served varies from nine to 24, depending on the region. My parents served 24 different foods as was the custom in their native village of Bova Superiore near Reggio Calabria. That, of course, included everything from antipasti to fruits and nuts. Christmas dinner consists of several antipasti, a light chicken broth, Ravioli, a custom dating back to the twelfth century when ravioli were also given to priests and monks as Christmas gifts, or a form of Lasagne. Perfectly presented Roast Stuffed Chicken or Roast Herbed Pork follow, bordered by delectably seasoned vegetables and a salad. More sumptuous desserts are served on Christmas than any other holiday, and can include a spectacular sponge cake layered with cream and chocolate custard drizzled with rum, a large variety of cookies including Amaretti and Struffoli.

Finally, on January 6, holiday festivities come to an end. Family ties were heightened, traditions and rituals were reinforced and through first-hand example passed on to the next generation. The food, prepared with love and devotion, was consumed with gusto and gratitude fulfilling the Calabrian proverb that appears in several Italian cookbooks: "Alla tavula e alla mugliera accostate bene", Go gratefully to the table and to the wife.

For your pleasure, I have included the well-known Christmas delight:

STRUFFOLI (O PIGNOLATA) ALLA CALABRESE

Calabrian Style Honey Clusters

Struffoli are a popular dessert choice throughout Calabria and many, if not most, parts of southern Italy. Also known as pitta 'mpigliata in dialect (and by a few souls as cicerata), this delightful dessert, always served at Christmas, is also customary at carnival time, just prior to Lent. The tiny pieces of fried dough are dipped in honey and piled into a conical mound. An attractive dessert that can double as a centerpiece, it can be made ahead, a blessing when planning a holiday meal. When my Mom made it, she topped it off with colored sprinkles. As a little girl, I recall thinking how colorful and appropriate it was for Christmas.

3 cups all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon freshly grated orange zest
1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon zest
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
½ cup vegetable oil, or more if needed
¾ cup honey
¼ cup sugar
colored sprinkles (optional)

In a large mixing bowl, add flour, salt, and orange and lemon zest. Add eggs gradually, mixing well. Remove dough and place on a floured surface. Knead for 3 to 4 minutes or until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Break off pieces of dough and roll into strips about ¼-inch in diameter. With a very sharp knife, cut into ¼-inch pieces and place on a floured surface.

In a large heavy skillet heat vegetable oil over medium heat. Add pieces of dough to skillet. Do not overcrowd. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes or until they are light golden brown. Drain on paper towels.

In a small skillet, add honey and sugar over medium heat. Simmer for 1 to 2 minutes or until sugar is melted. Remove from burner and gently place bits of fried dough into warm honey; stir to coat. Remove with slotted spoon and place on a colorful serv-ing dish. Let cool for about 1 minute. Dip your hands in cold water periodically to keep cookies from sticking to your fingers. Quickly begin layering making each subsequent layer smaller so it ends up looking like a wide upside-down ice cream cone. Sprinkle immediately with colored sprinkles. Cool thoroughly. Cover tightly with foil or plastic wrap. Keeps well for several days.
Serves 12 to 16

Bouno Natale:
Mary Amabile Palmer